Its alot different than Buenos Aires thats for sure. While in Buenos Aires, I could go to a shopping mall, or hit up a local McDonalds (even Kosher McDonalds). But none of that exists here.
There are no chain stores of any kind, no grocery stores, no usual fast food places. Instead, during the day, the entire city becomes a sprawling market, with vendors hawking everything from fake nikes, handmade jewelry, ripped movies, and coke leaves by the bag (coke is legal here). Actually my dad told me a funny story how my great grandmother and father did not get along well at all... unless they sat and chewed coke leaves together. I'll get around to trying it, and fill you in on the psychodelic trip that may ensue. We bought my abuela a fridge the other day at the market, she had been storing raw meat in cupboards or drawers. Plus she usually just buys her food daily from the market. Here is one pic of the market, it goes as far as the eye can see, and spills into every side street. Its huuuuuge.
Another thing about this place is that its hiiiigh above sea level, about 12,000 feet above sea level. I've been feeling out of breath alot, and my heart always seems to be racing. I'm hoping I get used to it soon. I'm staying at my abuela's house, she lives in a small alley way with her sister (who is 83) and a family she rents the place to. The place where my dad and his family grew up is in the back (barely visible in the pic), made of a kind of mud building material. My dad says he was surprised it was still standing. Him and his four brothers used to share one bed there.
My abuela runs a small store in the front of her room, it connects to her bedroom and kitchen, and to the room my dad and I are staying in. She opens ridiculously early, and people stroll past and yell "venda me!" My abuela then comes around the corner from where she is watching her telenovelas or knitting and helps them out. She stays open til about 10pm... she sure has energy... or maybe she's been chewing on some of those coke leaves;)
I have so much to blad about already, but I'll spare you til next time. I'll go into more about the city and its people next post. Meanwhile, here are some random photos around town. The first is a random street in the town. The second is a photo of the city's center where there is a little park. The last is a banner I figured Berkeley ethnic studies folks would like.